Summer is a time for shorts, t-shirts and lazy, relaxing
days. Or in my case a time for a fresh
perspective, surprisingly this comes in the form of me turning into a tourist
in my own city. Talk about a change of
pace, now as you know I love a good explore – why not my own city?
I rarely take the time to relax and look at Toronto for what
it is – an amazing cosmopolitan city with a lot going for it. Incredibly clean, safe, well maintained and
with a vibrant and busy downtown core…
Now layer on top some fantastic museums, cool neighborhoods and v’wallah
(I may have just made that word up…albeit it is a word, just the my spelling is
clearly phonetic vs. what’s its supposed to be, so please bear with me) J
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Early morning Kensington Market, Toronto |
As I was saying, Toronto is one of the top cities on the
planet to live, yet I rarely think about it as a destination, or even fully appreciate
it for what it is and what a great place it is to live. I, for one take my home city for granted - there you have it, the bold faced truth!
However, this summer I’ve decided that whenever I don’t have
Zach and Sami and have planned on “staying in” for the weekend I make it a
priority to get on my bike and go explore a place I haven't been
or spent much time.
Now on face value its a great way to spend a beautiful summers
day, riding around the city and taking lots of photos, window shopping or just
plain people watching (okay, possibly my personal favorite thing to do).
Nestled a few streets north of Spadina and Dundas; Kensington
market is truly a local gem. I made my recent visit just after dawn a few
Saturdays ago, the sunlit streets completely void of all life except for the
odd shopkeeper hosing down their sidewalk. As I slowly rode past I got a smile and a watery
splash on my wheels for good measure, I suppose they aren't used to seeing too many visitors at
this time of day so its to be expected.
It was the start of another busy day in one of Toronto’s
oldest neighborhoods, originally a predominantly Jewish area of town now a
veritable melting pot of humanity stuffed into just a few square city blocks,
its one of Toronto’s most eclectic and vibrant communities where, depending on
the shop and the time of the day a good “haggle” is not out of the question. Until recently I hadn't realized that in 2006
it had been named a National Historic site of Canada. Go figure?
Only in Canada right…J
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Nothing says Leslieville like Queen Street East - eclectic doesn't even go close to capturing the essence of this neighborhood |
Another of my favorite neighborhoods is Leslieville. Fortunately for me this one is located on my
doorstep and less than a kilometer from my house in the east end. It officially runs diagonally south along Gerrard
all the way down to Eastern Avenue from Coxwell and follows the Canadian National railway
line. Although, when I think of
Leslieville my mind turns primarily to Queen Street between Coxwell and Broadview, but
hey what do I know I've only lived in the 'hood for 18 months and a mere newcomer in the grand scheme of things.
Strangely, depending on whom you ask it’s either an “up and
coming” neighborhood or completely middle class. J I’m going to
go with “up and coming”, cos' depending on which street you’re on it can be
extreme, even on the same street!
Clearly it’s been through significant gentrification over
the past decade; with close proximity to downtown it’s a great place to live but
you have to like to live close to others.
This is not a neighborhood festooned with big rebuilds, nope this is an
area crammed with 18 – 22 foot lots and old fashioned bungalows and semi’s
jammed together like a leafy jigsaw puzzle. Not unlike what you may
have found in most cities during the 1920’s and 30’s I'm thinking.
The narrow shady streets were in full bloom on my recent
bike ride, with a truly different feel to the grittiness of Kensington markets,
yet with a unique character all its own. I think my favorite part of Leslieville are the tons of
little quirky stores, selling all manner of thing from second hand record
stores (yes, a huge resurgence), to dollar stores, to chic and funky
restaurants (Ruby Watchco, Le Papillon on the Park and my personal favorite - Lil' Baci). The other big thing I've noticed is the glut
of cupcake stores; albeit yummy I'm completely at a loss as to how they keep in
business given the fierce local competition and the close proximity to each other in this market.
I have to share a funny story with you, although I do feel bad telling this story. Clearly I really have no legitimate right to be giving directions to anyone given my tenure in the area, however being the helpful lad that I am I couldn't say no.
As I was riding home along Queen street after checking out Leslieville, I was about to cycle over the Don River bridge and was stopped by two tourists on bikes who asked me (in their best English) where the bike path entrance was to the Don Valley cycle path.
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The Queen Street bridge over the Don River... |
To ensure full disclosure and paint the full picture, I was about 100 meters from the bridge heading east when the stopped me. So in my best tour guide voice said that there was no entrance to my knowledge at Queen Street and that they had to turn around and head down King Street to Sumach then follow it to Cherry Street where they would see it and then be able to pick it up...which was a good 3 - 4 kilometers from where we were.
They looked quizzically at me, shrugged their shoulders, thanked me and turned around and headed off toward King street. As I rode away I was congratulating myself on the good deed I'd just done when less than 50 meters on I was almost knocked over by a cyclist coming up the stairs next to the bridge from the bike path on the Don River...
At this point I turned and desperately looked in the direction the two trusting tourists but they had disappeared down King street by this time and I felt a complete "tool" and now most unhelpful!
Fortunately for me I've only managed to get to these two
amazing neighborhoods so far, and I'm sure the Toronto Tourist Authority is pleased that I haven't set foot in any other areas of town just yet...perhaps they may pay me to keep away? Hhhmmm - perhaps a new career in this. J
Here’s to exploring right in our own backyards and giving "good" advice!
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Enjoy the selection of photos from my recent urban expeditions
Kensington Market
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My personal favorite mural in Kensington Market - Coral Seafood Company |
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Some stores weren't quite ready for business at this hour... |
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Hhhmmm - not sure what this means as it was painted on a light post |
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A lot of time went into this amazing mural in Kensington Market |
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Such a cool photo - especially love the red gloves |
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The scene of the notorious sidewalk spray incident |
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Organic fishmonger anyone??? |
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All the stores are jumbled together - or as I'd say "higgledy piggledy" |
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Early morning preparation |
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Says it all really |
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An absolute classic parked outside their house in Kensington Market |
As you can see Kensington market adjoins Chinatown
Leslieville
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Eastern Avenue still has some gentrification to undergo to catch up to the rest of Leslieville. |
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Yep, they still have them... |
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Typical Leslieville housing - this on Carlaw at Queen |
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Ivy on Eastern Avenue - technically I wasn't in their yard... |
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View over the Eastern Avenue Bridge looking toward the downtown core and Toronto's preparation for the Pan American Games next summer |
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CN Tower reflection in a shop window - oh yes, I forgot but summer has actually been officially renamed "Construction" in the city of Toronto |
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Not sure when exactly they were the "Best Schnitzel's in town!", but what the hey... |
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One of the many tattoo parlours on Queen Street East |
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TW's reflection while taking photos at a traffic light...a ride by not a drive by! |
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Queen East streetcar over the Don River bridge |
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People watching at its best on Queen street |
Gerrard street tunnel under the railway line