Disheveled Musings: Tourist Dilemma

Summer is a time for shorts, t-shirts and lazy, relaxing days. Or in my case a time for a fresh perspective, surprisingly this comes in the form of me turning into a tourist in my own city. Talk about a change of pace, now as you know I love a good explore – why not my own city?

I rarely take the time to relax and look at Toronto for what it is – an amazing cosmopolitan city with a lot going for it. Incredibly clean, safe, well maintained and with a vibrant and busy downtown core… Now layer on top some fantastic museums, cool neighborhoods and v’wallah (I may have just made that word up…albeit it is a word, just the my spelling is clearly phonetic vs. what’s its supposed to be, so please bear with me) J

Early morning Kensington Market, Toronto

As I was saying, Toronto is one of the top cities on the planet to live, yet I rarely think about it as a destination, or even fully appreciate it for what it is and what a great place it is to live. I, for one take my home city for granted - there you have it, the bold faced truth!

However, this summer I’ve decided that whenever I don’t have Zach and Sami and have planned on “staying in” for the weekend I make it a priority to get on my bike and go explore a place I haven't been or spent much time.

Now on face value its a great way to spend a beautiful summers day, riding around the city and taking lots of photos, window shopping or just plain people watching (okay, possibly my personal favorite thing to do).

Nestled a few streets north of Spadina and Dundas; Kensington market is truly a local gem. I made my recent visit just after dawn a few Saturdays ago, the sunlit streets completely void of all life except for the odd shopkeeper hosing down their sidewalk. As I slowly rode past I got a smile and a watery splash on my wheels for good measure, I suppose they aren't used to seeing too many visitors at this time of day so its to be expected.

It was the start of another busy day in one of Toronto’s oldest neighborhoods, originally a predominantly Jewish area of town now a veritable melting pot of humanity stuffed into just a few square city blocks, its one of Toronto’s most eclectic and vibrant communities where, depending on the shop and the time of the day a good “haggle” is not out of the question. Until recently I hadn't realized that in 2006 it had been named a National Historic site of Canada. Go figure? Only in Canada right…J

Nothing says Leslieville like Queen Street East - eclectic doesn't even go
close to capturing the essence of this neighborhood

Another of my favorite neighborhoods is Leslieville. Fortunately for me this one is located on my doorstep and less than a kilometer from my house in the east end. It officially runs diagonally south along Gerrard all the way down to Eastern Avenue from Coxwell and follows the Canadian National railway line. Although, when I think of Leslieville my mind turns primarily to Queen Street between Coxwell and Broadview, but hey what do I know I've only lived in the 'hood for 18 months and a mere newcomer in the grand scheme of things.

Strangely, depending on whom you ask it’s either an “up and coming” neighborhood or completely middle class. J I’m going to go with “up and coming”, cos' depending on which street you’re on it can be extreme, even on the same street!

Clearly it’s been through significant gentrification over the past decade; with close proximity to downtown it’s a great place to live but you have to like to live close to others. This is not a neighborhood festooned with big rebuilds, nope this is an area crammed with 18 – 22 foot lots and old fashioned bungalows and semi’s jammed together like a leafy jigsaw puzzle. Not unlike what you may have found in most cities during the 1920’s and 30’s I'm thinking.

The narrow shady streets were in full bloom on my recent bike ride, with a truly different feel to the grittiness of Kensington markets, yet with a unique character all its own. I think my favorite part of Leslieville are the tons of little quirky stores, selling all manner of thing from second hand record stores (yes, a huge resurgence), to dollar stores, to chic and funky restaurants (Ruby Watchco, Le Papillon on the Park and my personal favorite - Lil' Baci). The other big thing I've noticed is the glut of cupcake stores; albeit yummy I'm completely at a loss as to how they keep in business given the fierce local competition and the close proximity to each other in this market.

I have to share a funny story with you, although I do feel bad telling this story. Clearly I really have no legitimate right to be giving directions to anyone given my tenure in the area, however being the helpful lad that I am I couldn't say no.

As I was riding home along Queen street after checking out Leslieville, I was about to cycle over the Don River bridge and was stopped by two tourists on bikes who asked me (in their best English) where the bike path entrance was to the Don Valley cycle path.

The Queen Street bridge over the Don River...

To ensure full disclosure and paint the full picture, I was about 100 meters from the bridge heading east when the stopped me. So in my best tour guide voice said that there was no entrance to my knowledge at Queen Street and that they had to turn around and head down King Street to Sumach then follow it to Cherry Street where they would see it and then be able to pick it up...which was a good 3 - 4 kilometers from where we were.

They looked quizzically at me, shrugged their shoulders, thanked me and turned around and headed off toward King street. As I rode away I was congratulating myself on the good deed I'd just done when less than 50 meters on I was almost knocked over by a cyclist coming up the stairs next to the bridge from the bike path on the Don River...

At this point I turned and desperately looked in the direction the two trusting tourists but they had disappeared down King street by this time and I felt a complete "tool" and now most unhelpful!

Fortunately for me I've only managed to get to these two amazing neighborhoods so far, and I'm sure the Toronto Tourist Authority is pleased that I haven't set foot in any other areas of town just yet...perhaps they may pay me to keep away? Hhhmmm - perhaps a new career in this. J

Here’s to exploring right in our own backyards and giving "good" advice!

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Enjoy the selection of photos from my recent urban expeditions

Kensington Market