Disheveled Musings

Summer is a time for shorts, t-shirts and lazy, relaxing days. Or in my case a time for a fresh perspective, surprisingly this comes in the form of me turning into a tourist in my own city. Talk about a change of pace, now as you know I love a good explore – why not my own city?

I rarely take the time to relax and look at Toronto for what it is – an amazing cosmopolitan city with a lot going for it. Incredibly clean, safe, well maintained and with a vibrant and busy downtown core… Now layer on top some fantastic museums, cool neighborhoods and v’wallah (I may have just made that word up…albeit it is a word, just the my spelling is clearly phonetic vs. what’s its supposed to be, so please bear with me) J

Early morning Kensington Market, Toronto

As I was saying, Toronto is one of the top cities on the planet to live, yet I rarely think about it as a destination, or even fully appreciate it for what it is and what a great place it is to live. I, for one take my home city for granted - there you have it, the bold faced truth!

However, this summer I’ve decided that whenever I don’t have Zach and Sami and have planned on “staying in” for the weekend I make it a priority to get on my bike and go explore a place I haven't been or spent much time.

Now on face value its a great way to spend a beautiful summers day, riding around the city and taking lots of photos, window shopping or just plain people watching (okay, possibly my personal favorite thing to do).

Nestled a few streets north of Spadina and Dundas; Kensington market is truly a local gem. I made my recent visit just after dawn a few Saturdays ago, the sunlit streets completely void of all life except for the odd shopkeeper hosing down their sidewalk. As I slowly rode past I got a smile and a watery splash on my wheels for good measure, I suppose they aren't used to seeing too many visitors at this time of day so its to be expected.

It was the start of another busy day in one of Toronto’s oldest neighborhoods, originally a predominantly Jewish area of town now a veritable melting pot of humanity stuffed into just a few square city blocks, its one of Toronto’s most eclectic and vibrant communities where, depending on the shop and the time of the day a good “haggle” is not out of the question. Until recently I hadn't realized that in 2006 it had been named a National Historic site of Canada. Go figure? Only in Canada right…J

Nothing says Leslieville like Queen Street East - eclectic doesn't even go
close to capturing the essence of this neighborhood

Another of my favorite neighborhoods is Leslieville. Fortunately for me this one is located on my doorstep and less than a kilometer from my house in the east end. It officially runs diagonally south along Gerrard all the way down to Eastern Avenue from Coxwell and follows the Canadian National railway line. Although, when I think of Leslieville my mind turns primarily to Queen Street between Coxwell and Broadview, but hey what do I know I've only lived in the 'hood for 18 months and a mere newcomer in the grand scheme of things.

Strangely, depending on whom you ask it’s either an “up and coming” neighborhood or completely middle class. J I’m going to go with “up and coming”, cos' depending on which street you’re on it can be extreme, even on the same street!

Clearly it’s been through significant gentrification over the past decade; with close proximity to downtown it’s a great place to live but you have to like to live close to others. This is not a neighborhood festooned with big rebuilds, nope this is an area crammed with 18 – 22 foot lots and old fashioned bungalows and semi’s jammed together like a leafy jigsaw puzzle. Not unlike what you may have found in most cities during the 1920’s and 30’s I'm thinking.

The narrow shady streets were in full bloom on my recent bike ride, with a truly different feel to the grittiness of Kensington markets, yet with a unique character all its own. I think my favorite part of Leslieville are the tons of little quirky stores, selling all manner of thing from second hand record stores (yes, a huge resurgence), to dollar stores, to chic and funky restaurants (Ruby Watchco, Le Papillon on the Park and my personal favorite - Lil' Baci). The other big thing I've noticed is the glut of cupcake stores; albeit yummy I'm completely at a loss as to how they keep in business given the fierce local competition and the close proximity to each other in this market.

I have to share a funny story with you, although I do feel bad telling this story. Clearly I really have no legitimate right to be giving directions to anyone given my tenure in the area, however being the helpful lad that I am I couldn't say no.

As I was riding home along Queen street after checking out Leslieville, I was about to cycle over the Don River bridge and was stopped by two tourists on bikes who asked me (in their best English) where the bike path entrance was to the Don Valley cycle path.

The Queen Street bridge over the Don River...

To ensure full disclosure and paint the full picture, I was about 100 meters from the bridge heading east when the stopped me. So in my best tour guide voice said that there was no entrance to my knowledge at Queen Street and that they had to turn around and head down King Street to Sumach then follow it to Cherry Street where they would see it and then be able to pick it up...which was a good 3 - 4 kilometers from where we were.

They looked quizzically at me, shrugged their shoulders, thanked me and turned around and headed off toward King street. As I rode away I was congratulating myself on the good deed I'd just done when less than 50 meters on I was almost knocked over by a cyclist coming up the stairs next to the bridge from the bike path on the Don River...

At this point I turned and desperately looked in the direction the two trusting tourists but they had disappeared down King street by this time and I felt a complete "tool" and now most unhelpful!

Fortunately for me I've only managed to get to these two amazing neighborhoods so far, and I'm sure the Toronto Tourist Authority is pleased that I haven't set foot in any other areas of town just yet...perhaps they may pay me to keep away? Hhhmmm - perhaps a new career in this. J

Here’s to exploring right in our own backyards and giving "good" advice!

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Enjoy the selection of photos from my recent urban expeditions

Kensington Market

My personal favorite mural in Kensington Market - Coral Seafood Company

Some stores weren't quite ready for business at this hour...

Hhhmmm - not sure what this means as it was painted on a light post

A lot of time went into this amazing mural in Kensington Market

Such a cool photo - especially love the red gloves

The scene of the notorious sidewalk spray incident

Organic fishmonger anyone???

All the stores are jumbled together - or as I'd say "higgledy piggledy"

Early morning preparation

Says it all really

An absolute classic parked outside their house in Kensington Market

As you can see Kensington market adjoins Chinatown

Leslieville

Eastern Avenue still has some gentrification to undergo to catch up to the rest of Leslieville.

Yep, they still have them...

Typical Leslieville housing - this on Carlaw at Queen

Ivy on Eastern Avenue - technically I wasn't in their yard...

View over the Eastern Avenue Bridge looking toward the downtown core and Toronto's
preparation for the Pan American Games next summer

CN Tower reflection in a shop window - oh yes, I forgot but summer has actually
been officially renamed "Construction" in the city of Toronto

Not sure when exactly they were the "Best Schnitzel's in town!", but what the hey...

One of the many tattoo parlours on Queen Street East

TW's reflection while taking photos at a traffic light...a ride by not a drive by!

Queen East streetcar over the Don River bridge

People watching at its best on Queen street

Gerrard street tunnel under the railway line

It was late afternoon by the time I stepped from my meeting onto the street in Madrid, and almost everyone except tourists were heading home for siesta. Let me tell you that of all the places I've been the Spanish take great pride in continuing the tradition of siesta. This two to three hour afternoon break from the rigors of the day is part of the fabric and rhythms of life in all of Spain and which I fully support being adopted in the remainder of the world!

For those visiting like me, its no longer like it once was where absolutely everything closes down, but cognizant of tourism and its importance in the economy over the past few decades there has been an acceptance that not absolutely everything can or should close during siesta well at least in the big metropolitan centers anyway. J

Fortunately I had the remainder of the afternoon stretching before me as my flight back to Toronto wasn't until the next morning.

What to do I thought to myself? Well, definitely back to my hotel to drop my briefcase, change and grab my trusty camera…

Museo del Prado in Madrid, set within the beautiful Botanical Gardens

My hotel was adjacent to the Botanical Gardens and the Reina Sofia National Museum and Art Center and I had my heart set on going to the Prado Museum, which was located about a kilometer from my hotel. Although I started the walk under cloudy skies it was great to feel the intermittent sun on my face as I strolled along the perimeter of the gardens, warming as I walked.

Upon reaching the Prado I realized that there was a Van Dyck exhibition at the museum, and although not a huge fan of Baroque had to go in and experience the sheer beauty of the Prado.

As expected it was a stunning collection of art treasures and not to be missed on any visit to Madrid, but when I exited the museum (on a bit of an art high as you can imagine) I stood on the top of the steps leading down to the street exit and noticed a woman in a striking red coat. No, I mean stunningly red with everything a drab grey in contrast to the brilliance of her coat.

Perhaps it was a sign that I was in for a photographic extravaganza I pondered as I brought my camera up to take the shot…

The mysterious woman in the red coat

Even before I had left the grounds I has a number of fantastic photos, seemingly everywhere I looked there was another image that just screamed out to be taken, so obligingly I cooperated and snapped image after image.

From the Prado I headed west along Carrera de San Jerónimo toward Puerta del Sol unaware of what fate had in store for me. Now, I don't really believe in fate, but it sure felt like it as I approached the Plaza...drawing me in to the fascinating facades and the myriad of cobbled streets that lead off in all directions. As I stood observing the scene before me, and taking it all in I noticed a row of motorcycles parked on a side street.

With an ever-curious mind I moved (or was I cosmically pulled?) toward the ubiquitous row of bikes parked nearby. I remember the light becoming very bright all of a sudden yet there was a dark overtone, it was an unusual light and as I looked up I noticed a dark storm cloud approaching, blotting the sun from half the sky. The remainder of the sky was a deep azure (blue) and I was bathed in brilliant sunshine. The light and tone were in that split second absolutely perfect, a photographers dream if you will.

I knew this light was a rarity and by its very nature elusive so I wanted to take full advantage, I raised my camera and began shooting as I strode around the Plaza. Within seconds the light had evaporated, as the sky began to darken considerably.

One of my favorites is my image captured in the mirror of
one of the motorbikes parked at Puerta del Sol

Now, seeing what was coming I quickly moved off toward Plaza Mayor, which was relatively nearby, barely making it under the covered walkway that surrounded the Plaza when the storm touched down over central Madrid.

For ten unabridged minutes it absolutely poured! The rain was as heavy as any I'd seen, even in Papua New Guinea or the tropics, it was as if someone was pouring bucket after bucket from the sky almost unable to see three meters in front of you.

Then just as quickly as it had hit, it stopped! Within a minute the clouds had begun to scatter to reveal an incredibly sunny afternoon once again. The steam rose in clouds from the large stone slabs that cover the Plaza as the tourists, tentatively at first, began to emerge from under the covered walkway and began once more milling in all areas of the square. The gloom of the storm now replaced with the carnival type atmosphere that permeated the large square was fascinating to observe.

Clearly the locals, many of them already home for siesta didn’t pay much attention to what seemed like a pretty normal afternoon, but to me it was mesmerizing to feel the intensity of the storm and be on hand to witness its revitalizing powers all within minutes.

Every color seemed to brighten or come alive in the post storm light, every shape seemed more interesting, which for a photographer is pure heaven.

My afternoon consisted of capturing the brilliance of central Madrid, in all of its glory and at the end of the day I had nearly 400 photos to show for it. I felt blessed with being there just for this moment in time and now wanted to share with some of the best photos from that afternoon with you all.

Enjoy!

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